Hawaii · Carnival Miracle · October 2016 · 16 nights

Sixteen days, four islands,
one Pacific

The Hawaii cruise is the trip that taught us how to vacation. It is sixteen days long. There are five sea days each direction. You will read more in two weeks than you've read all year. You will sleep eight hours every night without trying. You will get on the ship feeling like a tightly-wound spring, and you will get off it feeling like a person again.

This is the journal from our round-trip on Carnival Miracle — and the case for why this might be the most underrated cruise itinerary in the world.

The trip at a glance

Ship
Carnival Miracle
Length
16 nights · round-trip from the West Coast
Route
5 sea days out → Hilo → Honolulu → Kahului → Kona → 5 sea days back
Best for
People who love the idea of cruising and want to test it at scale. Couples who need to fully unplug. Readers.
Season
September–April. Hawaii is good year-round but the cruise schedule clusters in fall and spring.
Spend
From around $2,200/person all-in for an inside cabin; $3,400+ for a balcony

The case for sea days —

If you've never done a long cruise, the idea of five sea days in a row sounds like a dare. Trust us: by day three of the outbound stretch, you will have stopped checking the time. You'll find a deck chair that's somehow always in the right amount of shade. You'll learn the names of the bartenders. You'll start eating breakfast slowly, because there is no reason to rush, anywhere, ever again. The sea days are the trip. The islands are a bonus.

A scene from our Hawaii cruise
Mid-Pacific. Day five of nothing in particular.

On day four I read a 600-page novel cover to cover. On day five I started another. I haven't done that since college. — Greg, somewhere west of nowhere

The four islands —

Hilo (Big Island, east side). Lush, rainy, green. Volcanoes National Park is the day's headline — go early before the clouds come in. The black sand beach at Punaluʻu is a worthwhile detour. Hilo town itself is sleepy in the best way.

Honolulu (Oʻahu). The most logistical day of the trip. Pearl Harbor is moving and worth the time, but if you've been before, consider skipping it for the North Shore — a different Hawaii, with food trucks, big surf, and shave ice.

Kahului (Maui). The Road to Hana doesn't quite fit in a port day, but the upcountry — Makawao, Iao Valley, the tasting rooms in upcountry Maui — does, and it's gorgeous.

Kona (Big Island, west side). Manta ray night dive. Do it. Even if you've never snorkeled in your life. We aren't divers and it remains one of the top five things we've ever done.

See all 170 photos from this trip →

What we'd do differently —

1. Book a balcony. On a 16-night cruise — half of which is sea days — your cabin matters more than usual. The balcony is where you'll watch the sun come up over the Pacific and where you'll have your morning coffee in your bathrobe. The upgrade more than pays for itself.

2. Don't over-plan the islands. The temptation, after five days at sea, is to cram every island day full. Resist. One big thing per island, plus time to swim and eat, is plenty.

3. Bring real books. The ship has a library. The Wi-Fi is fine but expensive and out of habit you'll keep checking it. Pre-load a stack of paperbacks and you'll thank yourself.

Want to go? —

Carnival, Princess, and Holland America all run round-trip Hawaii cruises from the West Coast — usually 14 to 17 nights. We can plan this exact itinerary or find one with the timing and ship that suits you best, and we have supplier perks across all three lines.

Plan my Hawaii trip

Read next

More from the journal